Here’s the underside work I had to do. The original casters were rusted together with those crappy in-wood mounts, so they had to be completely removed. Patched up the holes, and installed these floor-friendly Teflon Levelers from Quartercade mounted in Arcade Adventure’s mounting plates.
Should be obvious why they are installed on an angle like that, I didn’t want to drill and have the bolts I used going through the plastic wood.
With the help of a furry friend and a rubber mallet with a towel duct-taped around it, I installed the T-Molding. Having the extra padding from the towel keeps from damaging and making dents and scruffs on the T-Molding plastic. I used a pair of wire cutters to create the necessary V cuts on the T-Molding to get around corners and some curves. The part around and under the control panel part was tricky and had to be worked a few times to get it right. The T-Molding starts and ends underneath the cabinet where it was stapled once I was satisfied the strip was secure and flat all along the cabinet.
Getting the vertical-grade laminate on the front wasn’t too hard once I bought the right tool to cut it. Initially, I did a test cut with a regular box-cutting blade and it went ok, until I prepped up the laminate on a workhorse to accurately trim to size. This is where it would flake apart as I cut it. This laminate-cutting hand tool from Amazon worked incredibly well. Getting the hole large enough for the coin door took a few tries to get it larger, my line drawing when I placed the laminate over to trace the opening wasn’t perfect. I used DAP Weldwood Contact Cement, let it dry about 5 minutes in 90+ heat, and used a j-roller to press it into place.